Tag Archives: New York
Macondo
Tom Tom and I stopped into Macondo the other evening for a drink or three. Though it would be cruel to subject a place to an official review just a couple of days after it opened, Macondo is already showing some winning traits.
The decor verges on the kitschy, with rope baskets slung above the bar holding bananas and pineapples, but it’s also creative, since rope netting is used elsewhere as a screen to separate the dining room from the bar area. One side of the room is tricked out in the grocery-staples-as-decor trend, this time focusing on a Latin theme, while the other side of the room is a long bar. At 5:30pm when we visited, the four bar stools outside on the street were already taken for al fresco cocktails. LES shopping break, anyone?
We came more for the cocktails for the food, but the food at this pan-Latin spot, brought to you by the folks behind Rayuela, more than stands up to the drinks menu. The humita, a sweet corn tamal dressed with a black bean sauce and surrounded by generous hunks of morcila, a spicy sausage I haven’t seen on these shores before. The spicy thread continued with the zingy ecuatoriano, a shrimp ceviche made with rocotto cheese, a hidden pepper ingredient, and lots of citrus. Fortunately for the non-spicy Tom Tom the carne empanada was a nice counterpart to the heat.
There were a ton of specialty ingredients in the cocktails, some of which were unfortunately not available, like the guanabana-coco and rum frozen cocktail (Zaya rum, Kahlua Sour SOP, coco, and lime), alas. Next time? When asked how they could possibly source all these ingredients, the bartender confided: Whole Foods. Of course! We should have known the comprehensive wackiness that is Whole Foods’ buying strategy would pay off in the cocktail world.
Banana + Cachaca was as good as an alcoholic smoothie, though the chunks of banana made it hard to swallow. Acai + Ron might have been my favorite: a mix of pomegranate syrup, acai juice, mint, Bacardi Razz rum, and Sprite. Thankfully they aren’t above using Sprite at this cocktail bar.
All in all, Macondo looks like a promising place to bring friends, especially that bizarre breed of friend that always wants to meet at the dinner hour “for drinks.” Here the unsuspecting friend could be easily tricked into ordering food, even anorexics posing as vegetarians, since there are many vegetarian dishes here as well.
Cocktails for a liquid diet, food for everyone–what more could you ask for? Macondo should be around for the long haul.
Macondo
157 East Houston Street
between Eldridge and Allen Streets
New York, New York
212-473-9900
Commerce
Sometimes it seems as if the whole of one’s existence—trying new restaurants, admiring retro-modern interiors, sampling overpriced local ingredients, hanging out in the West Village, referring to oneself as “one”—could be summed up as Stuff White People Like. Commerce restaurant in the West Village is no exception. On a recent evening, we witnessed dozens of white people shelling out top dollar for expensive food in a casual setting, yet none of them seemed to mind. Why?
For one thing, the food is good. It may be all over the map, with Thai curries mixing with French bistek all on the same menu page, but it’s consistently well executed. It’s worth noting that Grange Hall had to close because the low prices of their locally-sourced food couldn’t cover the rent in this historic space, even when the place was packed every night, but now when a new restaurant comes in with fancier, higher-priced fare, it’s criticized as too lofty for its britches. These Commerce Street britches may be casual, but they sure ain’t cheap. You can’t really fault Harold Moore and co. for their strategy.
Jib Girl, the Sea Wench, and I visited Commerce after the Bruni, so chef Harold Moore, who was in the kitchen at Montrachet before, might have had some more time to work out the kinks. The infamously addictive breadbasket was just as tempting as promised, with all sorts of little buns in different flavors. That night’s market special mixed an asparagus and artichoke fricasse with mushrooms, truffle and, according to the menu, poached “hen” (not rooster) egg with fabulous results–all the flavors of spring were perfectly represented here.
The Sea Wench and I split Beau Soleil oysters with green apple gelee, mint, and lemon ice–these were as inventive as something Josh DeChellis might have whipped up at Sumile. The sweet-and-sour tang was interesting, but, as a white person (see photo, right), I secretly wished for something more boring: plain old oysters with mignonette sauce, so that we could better taste the oysters.
“Ragu of odd things”–the “odd things” being oxtail, trotters, and tripe–had the real earthy depth of a good stew. Served with homemade orecchiette cooked perfectly al dente, this was an excellent, rich pasta dish.
If other restaurants serve “elevated comfort food,” Commerce seems to take comfort food and turn it up to eleven. Each dish starts as something expected and then gets thrown for a loop. Mushroom and fontina ravioli sounds normal enough, until you keep reading and learn it’s served with caramelized salsify (the French “oyster plant” herb) and parmesan emulsion (read: foam). While this sort of culinary sleight of hand can be confusing to white people, we like to be kept on our toes, especially if we can feel like we’re taking a risk. Here the risk pays off with an end product that tastes reassuringly familiar and satisfying–this dish is essentially gourmet cheese ravioli.
Both Jib Girl and the Sea Wench went for the snapper as an entree. Oddly for something served in a nouveau-speakeasy setting (though less so when you realize Commerce’s secret weapon is chef de cuisine Snir Eng-Sela, formerly of Blue Hill, also responsible for the bread basket), this was one of the best Thai dishes any of us had had in recent memory. The fabulous green broth had real flavor and gingery kick, the snapper was perfectly poached, and the eggplant and charred scallion offset the other elements beautifully.
Again going way out on a limb for a white person, I ordered an entree that featured bone marrow…in the bone. Outrageous! Fortunately, the experimentation involved in eating this rich, gelatinous substance was rewarded with comfortingly familiar food, sliced sirlioin steak. It was hard to believe that this hadn’t been cooked on a charcoal grill in some West Village backyard, the char was so nicely redolent of smoke.
By this time, we were stuffed. The various appetizers, the decadent entrees, and a couple pricey bottles of wine meant the tab added up—about $100 per person. You may not find a bargain at Commerce, but you’ll find a fabulous meal and a convivial atmosphere. Who knows? With a formula like this, Commerce could be more than just stuff white people like and become a real destination restaurant.
Commerce
50 Commerce Street, between Bedford and Barrow Streets
New York, New York
212-524-2301
Posted in American, food, New York restaurants, restaurants, West Village
Tagged marrow, New York
3 Comments
Benoît New York
It can be terrifying when someone decides to tinker with a place you know and love. Such was the case several years back in Paris when the Alain Ducasse group took over Benoit, a beloved institution in the local dining scene, and injected it with new blood in the kitchen and a face lift in the dining room. Purists in Paris quibble that it’s a little too slick and international now, but at least it’s still alive and serving excellent food, unlike so many other traditional bistros there.
So what would happen when the Ducasse group decided to airlift the Benoit concept over to the United States? It seemed like there was no way they couldn’t mess it up in this town, which, due to the McNallification of the dining scene, equates “bistro” with loud music, subway tiles, and unisex bathrooms–several things that would never fly at a traditional bistro in Paris.
What a relief, then, to walk into Benoit in New York and find a little slice of authentic French food and dining culture. There is no music; there are no candles on the table. The lighting is not quite as bright as it is in Benoit Paris, but it’s dully uniform, just as it is in bistros there. It’s the idea of restaurant-as-stage-set, where your only choice is to pay attention to the food on your plate or the scene, and what a scene it is. Former patrons of La Côte Basque, mainly well-to-do Upper East Siders, have returned to the old location. On a recent night, an elderly lady done up in an exquisite black and white dress (Chanel?) and her elderly husband both sat on the banquette, facing the crowd. A large party of young, glamorous couples stopped in for a late dinner at 9:30; one woman walked down the aisle in a pencil skirt done up with bows above the high-cut slit in the back. Trés chic. As Florent Morellet has said, arrange your seating just so and you’ll create a veritable catwalk, just like they do it in Paris.
The staff, which was polite and attentive, started us off with a round of gougeres that arrived at the table straight from the oven. These seemed to have the maximum cheese-to-non-cheese-ingredients ratio and were some of the best in the city. Marie Fromage, JP Morgan, and I started with the escargots, since there are very few places where you know you’ll get them fresh, not out of a can, and Benoit is one of them. Have them fresh and it’s like tasting real French fries after eating frozen Ore-Ida’s – what a huge difference in quality. Benoit’s escargots were just as buttery and garlicky as anyone could desire, and crusted on top with a thin crispy layer of breadcrumbs.
The lobster bisque was beautifully presented–a dollop of buttery, tender lobster meat and creme fraiche in the middle, which the waiter then surrounded with the bisque, poured from a pewter boat. The soup itself was a little too salty–the saltiness would be our main critique of the food here–but traditional French cuisine is generally much saltier than any nouvelle cuisine that has followed. Suck it up for tradition’s sake?
Lamb chops had a wonderfully smoky char, and the meat was lean, clean, and tasted of spring herbs. Quenelles, breaded flaked fish patties dressed up with sauce, aren’t something you often see on a menu–indeed, Marie Fromage remarked that she hadn’t seen them since culinary school. These were fluffy and light but decadently rich in flavor. The Spanish version of this dish, thought to be introduced by the Romans, is brandada de hacalao, found at Boqueria.
At my place arrived the true test of authenticity: the cassoulet. Benoit in Paris had the best cassoulet I’ve ever tasted–could the New York version compare? The perfectly tender white beans floated in a broth that was a little more watery than expected, but in the end this turned out to be a blessing, because the flavor was so intensely meaty (and admittedly salty) that a denser texture would have been overwhelming. Beans concealed a spicy lamb sausage and–surprise–an entire duck leg. This was over-the-top delicious, definitely on par with the Parisian version and almost certainly the best cassoulet in New York.
Wine aficionados will find a lot to like on the wine menu, which, like the food menu, includes many reasonably-priced, high-quality options. We really enjoyed our $10 glass of Bourgogne, a V. Girardin Cuvee Saint Vincent–and couldn’t believe it was just $10.
We managed to find about two cubic inches of stomach capacity left to tackle dessert, which we ordered because of its clever name, Mister Mystere. But there’s no mystery about it: this iced hazelnut mousse was refreshing yet rich, dressed up in melted chocolate, the perfect “light” ending to an excellent meal.
Benoit
66 West 55th Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues
New York, New York
646-943-7373
=”http://bp2.blogger.com/_rz2cdDIwktM/SCcjgQLEY6I/AAAAAAAAFbU/8wWfdBS0Xj4/s1600-h/benoit-menu.png”>
Posted in food, French, Midtown West, New York restaurants, restaurants
Tagged duck, New York
2 Comments
Bobo
It’s hard to be taken seriously with a name like “bobo.” Wharton business major Carlos Suarez found he kept using the word, coined by David Brooks, when describing his plans for a new restaurant. Only a Wharton business major or Mary-Kate Olsen wouldn’t pick up on the inherent insult in a word that means “half yuppie-bourgeois and half hippie-bohemian.” No matter: Like Mary-Kate Olsen and many a business major, bobo succeeds anyway.
If you’ve been before and dismissed bobo because of the lackluster food, it’s worth a revisit. Former chef Nicholas Cantrel left and has since been installed at Bagatelle. In his place are chefs Rick Jakobsen from Red Hook’s 360 and Jared Stafford-Hill of Hearth. How convenient! All this time I’ve been to lazy to schlep out to the famously good 360, now tragically closed. One can only hope that the new incarnation of bobo can channel what was before out in Brooklyn’s Red Hook.
If you can find this nearly-unmarked West Village townhouse, you’ll walk into a beautiful, low-ceilinged, candlelit English basement level space with exposed beams, a long bar upholstered with a houndstooth pattern, and a black upright piano stacked with vintage LP records. They may be bobo touches all, but the records aren’t just for show. We heard the Beatles and Led Zeppelin the night we were there, complete with a few pops and scratches and the uncompressed, rich sound of old vinyl records.
It’s an appropriate soundtrack for a place that strives to keep it real, as much as a bourgeois bohemian can. Bobo is one of a growing number of restaurants that, for environmental reasons, does not offer bottled water. Instead, they make their own purified and seltzer water and serve it in carafes.
It was a lively gang that night, perhaps because Knucklehead, Menudo, and Annette had already spent several hours at Smith & Mills before heading uptown. High Maintenance ordered the winter squash soup with pear, cranberry, and smoked duck – hold the pear, cranberry, and smoked duck (don’t ask). The spartan soup that remained held up well on its own, however, and it came served in pretty vintage bone china.
My tuna, white bean and arugula salad arrived as a salad alongside a massive hunk of tuna that must have been prepared in some high-tech way. Was it grilled then sous-vide’d? Grilled then preserved in a crystallized format somehow? Either way, the resulting tuna, though visually appealing, was oddly rubbery and bland. As Sara Jenkins pointed out, why do male chefs insist on treating the kitchen like a science lab? But the white beans were wonderfully toothsome and the arugula nice and peppery.
Menudo’s winter vegetable salad was exactly as advertised and came with a delicately tangy lemon dressing. Raw scallops and grapefruit, beets, and fennel came together in Knucklehead’s dish, the best of the appetizers. 
The scallops had a wonderfully clean, barely saline taste, delicious with the bitter sweet juicy crunch of the grapefruit. As we saw at Momofuku Ssam, scallops pair particularly well with fruit, and a sprinkling of fennel leaves gave Bobo’s a tingling herbal taste.
Surprisingly for a place that’s not even Italian, much less a serious pasta joint, Bobo has a ricotta ravioli that could contend with the best. Huge, plump, generously portioned ravioli were already decadent before getting dressed in butter, parmesan, and meltingly soft winter vegetables.
The chicken was just the sort of elevated comfort food we were craving on that rainy night. Crispy skin, tender meat, and a buttery flavor throughout. It had been seasoned just enough, but not too much to overwhelm the rich flavor. A mixture of polenta and black cabbage topped off the homeyness of the dish.
Supposedly there was a basic steak dish at the previous incarnation of Bobo, which I never visited. The current entree takes steak to the next level, topping it with oxtail soffrito and caramelized cippolini. Here again Bobo straddles the line between comforting and outright decadent and succeeds with flying colors.
Pot au feu gets a tweak with lamb substituted for beef as the starring meat. I can’t imagine why I’ve never seen this dish before in a New York restaurant. Lamb makes the pot au feu so much more flavorful, and the vegetables were still al dente, done in the Dan Barber haute barnyard style.
There are so many iterations of Annette’s Berkshire pork entree with cabbage, potatoes, and pinot gris in the city now that it was hard to set this one apart, but his had prettily carved baby potatoes in the French style.
As for the desserts, we wished the chocolat pot de creme had gelled a little bit more – it should be firm, not gloopy. But it was nice to see a good old-fashioned upside down cake, this time in
pear, on an urban menu again. Definitely worth the post-prandial calories.
A trip to the restroom revealed a gorgeous second floor dining room on the townhouse’s parlor floor. All the details have been well thought-out here, from the octagonal book nooks to the dramatic chandeliers to the Victorian wallpaper and brass swan fixtures in the powder room. Now, it seems, bobo’s food is finally following suit. If liking Bobo makes one bobo, then consider me guilty as charged.
bobo
181 West 10th Street at Seventh Avenue South
New York, New York
212-488-2626
Posted in American, food, French, Italian, New York restaurants, restaurants, West Village
Tagged beef, Bobo, duck, New York
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Fashion Week FS08: Marc Jacobs
Finally, the last installment of fashion week: the Marc Jacobs show. Sorry for the delay!
As always, there was excellent people watching to be had at the MJ show. These photos were hard to whittle down.
Gretchen Mol channeled true Hollywood glamour in a white coat.
Hamish Bowles, always ahead of the curve, mixed plaids a week before everyone saw the same trend at the D&G show.
Ellen Pompeo looked gorgeous in the deshabille MJ look for spring.
Richie Rich in black nail polish and rhinestone-encrusted owl thingy.
Luxe velvety layering in a Bloomsbury look.
Rachel Zoe is shocked to learn that the show started without her. Funny, they waited for Anna Wintour.
This girl (Interview Mag? Not sure.) is always On Trend. Black funky glasses, shiny tights, and leopard shoes.
It takes panache to pull off mauve. Somehow this looks really good, especially paired with pea green.
Lynn Yaeger: but of course Bloomsbury is in!
Anna Wintour and her equally elusive husband J. Shelby Bryan.
This dress has a machine gun print! Love.
Neon florals plus biker jacket. A good bet for spring in New York.
Bill Cunningham was beside himself when he spotted these two girls with silk flowers in their hair. Turns out they work for Marc Jacobs.
I had no idea that Ukrainian PM Yulia Tymoshenko was a fan of Sonic Youth. Kidding, people. Still, I like that this hairdo has staying power.
Nice biker jacket and beautiful hair.
MIA. I’m not sure I like what she’s wearing, but here’s her picture anyway.
Another flowy dress that hit below the knee – a trend for fall. Nicely mixed with the fur scarf and belt.
They say dark red lips are in for spring, but doesn’t candy apple red feel spring-ier? Also note her clutch and the diamond band on middle finger, seen several times during fashion week. Her friend rocks the chunky cocktail ring, still going strong.
Hamish Bowles, always ahead of the curve, mixed plaids a week before everyone saw the same trend at the D&G show.
Ellen Pompeo looked gorgeous in the deshabille MJ look for spring.
Richie Rich in black nail polish and rhinestone-encrusted owl thingy.
Luxe velvety layering in a Bloomsbury look.
Rachel Zoe is shocked to learn that the show started without her. Funny, they waited for Anna Wintour.
This girl (Interview Mag? Not sure.) is always On Trend. Black funky glasses, shiny tights, and leopard shoes.
It takes panache to pull off mauve. Somehow this looks really good, especially paired with pea green.
Lynn Yaeger: but of course Bloomsbury is in! 
Anna Wintour and her equally elusive husband J. Shelby Bryan.
This dress has a machine gun print! Love.
Neon florals plus biker jacket. A good bet for spring in New York.
Bill Cunningham was beside himself when he spotted these two girls with silk flowers in their hair. Turns out they work for Marc Jacobs.
I had no idea that Ukrainian PM Yulia Tymoshenko was a fan of Sonic Youth. Kidding, people. Still, I like that this hairdo has staying power.
Nice biker jacket and beautiful hair.
MIA. I’m not sure I like what she’s wearing, but here’s her picture anyway.
Another flowy dress that hit below the knee – a trend for fall. Nicely mixed with the fur scarf and belt.
They say dark red lips are in for spring, but doesn’t candy apple red feel spring-ier? Also note her clutch and the diamond band on middle finger, seen several times during fashion week. Her friend rocks the chunky cocktail ring, still going strong. 
A MJ rhinestone dress that Selma Blair also wore.
Proof that a guy can have long hair and a beard and still look polished and sophisticated.
Posted in fashion
Tagged Anna Wintour, fashion week, Hamish Bowles, Lynn Yaeger, Marc Jacobs, New York, Rachel Zoe, street chic
4 Comments
Fashion Week FS08: Project Runway
The Project Runway show was tons of fun. The glamour! The suspense! The novelty of watching a fashion show with people who are still enthusiastic about fashion!
Thoughts on the show itself, which had five finalists and is up on NY Mag.
Sweet P – lots of purple, cute tailored suits, and the kind of dreamy music you’d associate with Sweet P.
Chris – lots of drama, but what’s up with the crushed velvet? The 90’s aren’t back yet.
Jillian – definitely the most commercial collection. You could just imagine this in the windows at Barneys. Beautifully cut, lots of sweaters and cigarette pants to balance out metallic evening wear. References to Balenciaga, Michael Kors, and of course, Ralph Lauren. Upbeat, fun music that made it feel like a professional show.
Rami – I just don’t like his style, especially in teal. No one clapped for this outfit. It screams Russian mafia bride to me. Lugubrious music.
Christian – brilliant as usual, if totally impractical. His label should be called “Dry Clean Only.” Copious amounts of ruffles, which he did in a horizonal ombre in one stunning belted cocktail dress. References to Prada and Alexander McQueen. A soundtrack like something Kelly would write. Let me borrow that top!
And here’s who came to the show.
Love the kohl eyes and platinum hair on the left. Fur jacket paired with PVC leggings a la Kate Moss. Toggle coat on the right.
This is actually a short sleeved black and white coat paired with long gray wool gloves. Skirt with zipper detail – how apropos.
Great accessories and hair.
A pop of spring color.
Pinstriped suit with motorcycle gloves. The red was what stood out.
Really digging this mix of drab greens with bright reds and pinks.
Basic but not boring.
Great colors mixed with neutrals.
Feathered fedora and a sparkly top. Beautiful makeup.
Full highwaisted skirt in cute black and white plaid. We’ll forgive her the Coach bag. These are fashion newbies!
This is actually a short sleeved black and white coat paired with long gray wool gloves. Skirt with zipper detail – how apropos.
Great accessories and hair.
A pop of spring color.
Pinstriped suit with motorcycle gloves. The red was what stood out.
Really digging this mix of drab greens with bright reds and pinks.
Basic but not boring.
Great colors mixed with neutrals.
Feathered fedora and a sparkly top. Beautiful makeup.
Full highwaisted skirt in cute black and white plaid. We’ll forgive her the Coach bag. These are fashion newbies!
Posted in fashion
Tagged fashion week, Michael Kors, New York, street chic
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Fashion Week FS08: Milly and Michael Kors
Hoardes of fashionable people converged upon the Bryant Park Tents for the Milly and Michael Kors shows.
André Leon Talley, leaving the Michael Kors show. Of course he can pull off a flowing fur scarf.
Beth Ostrosky with big purple bag.
Melania and the Donald leaving Michael Kors.
Blue tights and accessories.
Sweaters and blazers – seen at Marc by Marc Jacobs and already working its way into wear.
An interesting color combination of mustard and electric blue. And don’t forget the cute pompom hat.
Very Hedi Slimane.
Long on cardigans for men. Expect to see more and more of them.
A nice mix of textures – silk dress plus suede jacket plus leather belt and rocking boots.
A variety of neutrals adds up to a polished, sophisticated look.
The Michael Kors aesthetic.
This guy is always very dapper – and very tan.
Love this mix of the cherry red lips with the moss green shawl. And check out the seals on her coat. Very boarding school.
Jamee Gregory et al leaving Michael Kors.
Electric blue shoes and a high-waisted coat. She is wearing nude pantyhose, but because they are so, so sheer, they actually look good.
Purple sunglasses.
Combining a black-and-white Milly dress with a brown cardigan and black belt.
Kate Lanphear, Senior Fashion Editor at Elle, sticks to her black-on-black guns as the rest of the fashion world goes color. Why mess with your signature look?
A beautiful pattern.
Hint of spring. Floral dresses like this one will be everywhere.
Another floral dress, paired with a sweater to winterize it.
Hey bitches! It’s William Sledd of Ask a Gay Man! Love him! Spotted here with man bag.<
br />
Neiman Marcus’ Ken Downing has been wearing impeccable suits all week.
Beth Ostrosky with big purple bag.
Melania and the Donald leaving Michael Kors.
Blue tights and accessories.
Sweaters and blazers – seen at Marc by Marc Jacobs and already working its way into wear.
An interesting color combination of mustard and electric blue. And don’t forget the cute pompom hat.
Very Hedi Slimane.
Long on cardigans for men. Expect to see more and more of them.
A nice mix of textures – silk dress plus suede jacket plus leather belt and rocking boots.
A variety of neutrals adds up to a polished, sophisticated look.
The Michael Kors aesthetic.
This guy is always very dapper – and very tan.
Love this mix of the cherry red lips with the moss green shawl. And check out the seals on her coat. Very boarding school.
Jamee Gregory et al leaving Michael Kors.
Electric blue shoes and a high-waisted coat. She is wearing nude pantyhose, but because they are so, so sheer, they actually look good.
Purple sunglasses.
Combining a black-and-white Milly dress with a brown cardigan and black belt.
Kate Lanphear, Senior Fashion Editor at Elle, sticks to her black-on-black guns as the rest of the fashion world goes color. Why mess with your signature look?
A beautiful pattern.
Hint of spring. Floral dresses like this one will be everywhere.
Another floral dress, paired with a sweater to winterize it.
Hey bitches! It’s William Sledd of Ask a Gay Man! Love him! Spotted here with man bag.<br />
Neiman Marcus’ Ken Downing has been wearing impeccable suits all week.
Posted in fashion
Tagged Andre Leon Talley, Beth Ostrosky, fashion week, Jamee Gregory, Kate Lanphear, Ken Downing, Melania Trump, Michael Kors, New York, Sarah Rutson, street chic
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Fashion Week FS08: Halston
A supercool crowd showed up for the relaunch of Halston. Not sure yet about the collection – very drapey. Some of the drapey pieces could become iconic Halston items, but other day wear outfits… It’s alarming when pants make even the models look fat.
Fortunately, the people-watching alone was worth the trip.
Anna Wintour arrives.
Severe military chic – a Karl Lagerfeld level of cool.
Silver jacket.
A model promoting Members Only jackets. The bomber styles are the best sellers, but I like her fitted Balenciaga-esque one.
A good hi-lo mix of Brit wear and Converse sneakers.
Meredith Melling Burke has been wearing a lot of flowy dresses. This one looked particularly good in animal print mixed with the neutral gray coat.
Kate Betts and compadre.
Another example of mixed neutrals – black plus brown bag, plus the red scarf that pops.
Whispering. I totally made that same gesture in junior high and thought no one would know I was whispering in class.
Carine Roitfeld and Mickey Boardman. Love her booties!
A cool downtown look.
Worth noting the stirrup stockings with heels. It’s been spotted a couple times now at the shows…
Running to make the show.
Two well-dressed friends.
The one on the right – Kate Lanphear – may win my vote for fashion icon of the week. Very consistent, catchy, rocker chick style. Skinny black jeans with platform boots.
Padma Lakshmi: gastro chic?
Severe military chic – a Karl Lagerfeld level of cool.
Silver jacket.
A model promoting Members Only jackets. The bomber styles are the best sellers, but I like her fitted Balenciaga-esque one.
A good hi-lo mix of Brit wear and Converse sneakers.
Meredith Melling Burke has been wearing a lot of flowy dresses. This one looked particularly good in animal print mixed with the neutral gray coat.
Kate Betts and compadre.
Another example of mixed neutrals – black plus brown bag, plus the red scarf that pops.
Whispering. I totally made that same gesture in junior high and thought no one would know I was whispering in class.
Carine Roitfeld and Mickey Boardman. Love her booties!
A cool downtown look.
Worth noting the stirrup stockings with heels. It’s been spotted a couple times now at the shows…
Running to make the show.
Two well-dressed friends.
The one on the right – Kate Lanphear – may win my vote for fashion icon of the week. Very consistent, catchy, rocker chick style. Skinny black jeans with platform boots.
Padma Lakshmi: gastro chic?
Posted in fashion
Tagged Anna Wintour, Carine Roitfeld, fashion week, Kate Lanphear, Meredith Melling Burke, Mickey Boardman, New York, Padma Lakshmi, street chic
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Fashion Week FS08: Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera’s fall collection was a WASP fantasy writ large: lots of swingy tweed jackets paired with cigarette pants tucked into riding boots and fanciful fedoras adorned with enormous peacock feathers. All of it was ever so slightly deconstructed and the materials mixed up for a magpie effect. Release the hounds!
The usual coterie of socialites, editors, and buyers attended, plus a celeb or two.
Angie Harmon – stunningly beautiful in real life.
Aerin Lauder bundled up against the cold.
He multiplied!
And he’s a trendsetter.
Layers and necklaces.
Hilary Alexander in Russian look.
A popular black and white coat.
Rrreow! This outfit is fierce.
Acid-bright colors.
Pulled together from head to toe.
A mixture of gray, brown, black, and a navy bubble skirt.
Definitely the cutest accessory at the shows.
Gorgeous scarlet dress with a blue sheen to it. And look how she’s paired it with an old man sweater. Brilliant.
Late for the show.
The high glamour quotient of wide legged white trousers.
More winter white.
Two women in hats.
Intriguing jeweled stockings.
Truly distinctive personal style.
Tinsley Mortimer and friend.
A flash of bright yellow – even better in plaid.
Very dapper in a suit with white piping.
Cheetah fedora and a feathery necklace.
Aerin Lauder bundled up against the cold.
He multiplied!
And he’s a trendsetter.
Layers and necklaces.
Hilary Alexander in Russian look.
A popular black and white coat.
Rrreow! This outfit is fierce.
Acid-bright colors.
Pulled together from head to toe.
A mixture of gray, brown, black, and a navy bubble skirt.
Definitely the cutest accessory at the shows.
Gorgeous scarlet dress with a blue sheen to it. And look how she’s paired it with an old man sweater. Brilliant.
Late for the show.
The high glamour quotient of wide legged white trousers.
More winter white.
Two women in hats.
Intriguing jeweled stockings.
Truly distinctive personal style.
Tinsley Mortimer and friend.
A flash of bright yellow – even better in plaid.
Very dapper in a suit with white piping.
Cheetah fedora and a feathery necklace.
Posted in fashion
Tagged Aerin Lauder, Carolina Herrera, fashion week, Hilary Alexander, New York, street chic, Tinsley Mortimer
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Fashion Week FS08: Hervé Léger
Max Azria, who relaunched the bandage dress for Hervé Léger, is at it again with a fall collection that incorporated billowy chiffon skirts into bandage bustier evening wear.
For a view of the collection, check out Style.com. Here’s who came to the show.
Fashion Week begins!
Shoes.
Stockings.
It’s easy to get dressed up for the shows, but what do you do if you play it casual? This guy got it right.
High-waisted skirt.
Two women in hounds tooth.
Fashion icon of last season’s shows. She’s telling me that I dropped my jacket.
Man with murse.
And you think it takes you forever to get ready in the morning.
This mustard color really stood out in the crowd. Expect the untraditional when it comes to spring colors this year.
Très chic.
Knits.
Head-to-toe Chanel.
Funky black glasses and shiny tights.
The gaucho tie may be a little over the top, but nobody could accuse these guys of not having A Look.
Plaid coat and sparkly leggings.
This chick – Kate Lanphear! – has been rocking the bob way before Victoria Beckham did.
Puss n boots?
Unexpected color.
Black and white.
Experimenting with color.
A cropped fur jacket was just the thing for these high-waisted jeans.
Fashion show fatigue is already setting in for some of the younger crowd.
Love the summery frill of white cotton lace peeking out from under a black wool coat.
More black and white.
Shoes.
Stockings.
It’s easy to get dressed up for the shows, but what do you do if you play it casual? This guy got it right.
High-waisted skirt.
Two women in hounds tooth.
Fashion icon of last season’s shows. She’s telling me that I dropped my jacket.
Man with murse.
And you think it takes you forever to get ready in the morning.
This mustard color really stood out in the crowd. Expect the untraditional when it comes to spring colors this year.
Très chic.
Knits.
Head-to-toe Chanel.
Funky black glasses and shiny tights.
The gaucho tie may be a little over the top, but nobody could accuse these guys of not having A Look.
Plaid coat and sparkly leggings.
This chick – Kate Lanphear! – has been rocking the bob way before Victoria Beckham did.
Puss n boots?
Unexpected color.
Black and white.
Experimenting with color.
A cropped fur jacket was just the thing for these high-waisted jeans.
Fashion show fatigue is already setting in for some of the younger crowd.
Love the summery frill of white cotton lace peeking out from under a black wool coat.
More black and white.
Posted in fashion
Tagged fashion week, Kate Lanphear, New York, street chic, Victoria Beckham
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Bar Boulud
When Knucklehead was going to be too late to join us at a recent dinner at Bar Boulud, High Maintenance suggested he meet us afterwards at the bar.
“Oh no,” I said. “There’s not actually a bar there.”
Therein lies the conundrum of Bar Boulud – and many other new places about town. Dining at the bar, which started as a solution for the reservation-deprived at places like Babbo, has now superseded drinking at the bar. So much so that you can’t even get a damn drink. What is the world coming to?
For one thing, the bar-less bar makes waiting awkward. At Bar Boulud, you’re standing uselessly at the edge of the room, like the kid left out of the slow dance during a school mixer. Add to that the lack of alcohol, and you have the entire junior high feeling. Fortunately, there are plenty of cool people to ogle here, like Sandy Weill, Martha Stewart, and Thomas Keller, all of whom were under one roof on the night we visited.
After a brief scuffle between High Maintenance and a hostess, we were led away from the drafty tables up front and past the long bar, which is inlaid with a lit glass display of hunks of meat in a Damien Hirst-like effect. Definitely ask for a table in back. The front area shouldn’t even be a seating area in the winter – for one thing, that’s where everyone’s standing around waiting. Daniel Boulud, why not put a foosball table and a TV in your bar instead? They have foosball in France…
We were greeted by glorious gougeres. These were supersized to tennis ball dimensions, light and fluffy, with just the right tang of cheese.
Bar Boulud, where Gilles Verot is the chef de cuisine, has just opened and is one of the most anticipated new restaurants of 2008. The menu is extensive, impossible to cover in one visit. We couldn’t try many of the dishes, but many of the ones we did still needed some fine tuning.
High Maintenance ordered the mushroom salad without the mushrooms – don’t ask – so that one can’t be covered here. Gibson’s Mom went for the mesclun provencal salad, which was quite nice. The small tomatoes were carefully blanched and peeled to bring out a true tomato flavor in the middle of winter.
The St. Jacques au chou, grilled Maine scallops, were disappointing. They did not seem to be overcooked, yet they were rubbery and stringy. This was particularly strange since scallops are in season now. The accompanying Orleans mustard winter slaw is a sort of sauerkraut, but ironically, I liked the Guss’ Pickles sauerkraut at Fette Sau better.
At least the cuts of meat were excellent. Black Angus sirloin had just the right mix of char and juiciness, and it was accompanied by delicious frites, beautifully presented. Unfortunately, someone had forgotten to salt or pepper it before putting it on the grill. This cardinal sin of cooking shouldn’t be overlooked just because the chef is taking the high road. There is even a folklore tale or two about how much meat loves salt.
The roasted chicken breast suffered the same saltless fate, though it too was a juicy cut of meat. Garlic mashed potatoes were subtly garlicky and quite satisfying – we ate them right up. Cauliflower gratin was served in a little cast iron dish. All it needed was some salt. And there was none on the table.
There was one star among our entrees, though: one of the signature dishes of this high-end charcuterie, the boudin blanc. This was perfection. Meltingly tender, this white sausage was made with a subtle but effective seasoning of herbs. Bar Boulud definitely owes a debt to Kurt Gutenbrunner, who’s been doing sausage right for years now at places like Blaue Gans. But as Boulud points out in the menu preamble (yes, there’s a preamble), he’s the sausage king of Lyon. Bar Boulud is like a Gutenbrunner place pushed to a new level of culinary esoterics and flashy interior design.
The wine list bears mentioning – it’s extensive, resourceful, and gently priced, with classics balancing out sommelier Daniel Johnnes’ new finds. Service was quite good – our waiter seemed like just a charming young guy, a little scruffy, until he broke out in perfect French. While it’s famously hard to get a reservation here now, we noticed that a couple tables were no-shows, and there was availability after 9:30 (even at the bar!).
Would we go back? There’s a catch 22 here: by the time the kitchen finds the salt, the celebrities may be gone. If you’re after the scene, go now. If you’re going for the food, wait.
Bar Boulud
1900 Broadway between 63rd and 64th Streets
212-595-0303
Posted in food, French, New York restaurants, restaurants, Upper West Side
Tagged Daniel Boulud, New York
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Young Collectors’ Night at the Winter Antiques Show
A well-dressed crowd showed up for Young Collectors’ Night at the Winter Antiques Show at the Armory. Shimmery fabrics and metallics looked especially good against the rich colors of the furniture and art. Some of the most stylish attendees were the antiques dealers themselves.
James Mischka and Mark Badgley, sponsors of the event.
Pure rock-n-roll glamour: sparkly tights paired with ankle boots, silver minidress, and a super cropped fur jacket.
One of the most elegant looks of the evening: midnight blue silk dress cinched by a black patent belt.
Gold from head to toe.
An antiques dealer in a chalk striped suit and salmon silk tie.
A lot of women wore open-toe shoes, despite the January cold. Accessorize with Town Car?
A gold circle pattern dress that blends with this antiques dealer’s wares.
Shoes and bag.
Tatiana Papanicolaou, one of the chairs of the event, in red and lots of diamonds.
Harbinger of spring? Dress in a wild botanical print.
An antiques dealer in a silver-studded coat and matching silver flats.
Three women.
Cheetah loafers and a suit with unfinished edges.
Stylish trio. Bow ties are just the thing for an antiques show – that or a velvet blazer. And love her booties.
More booties, black paired with navy tights.
A dapper couple that’s almost color coordinated. Notice her shiny tights – the next wave after shiny leggings?
Beard and Belgian loafers, plus a debonair look with scarf.
Dovetail
Normally I don’t even try to go to popular new restaurants on the Upper West Side, considering it an exercise in futility. I could never get a table at ‘Cesca when Tom Valenti was cooking, and by the time I got to Aix, it could have been called “eh.” It might be the Upper West Sider’s uncanny ability to plan ahead – all that booking of Met and Carnegie Hall tickets – but here’s another theory why, with apologies to Jessica Hagy of Indexed.
Dovetail aims to be a neighborhood place: the side street location on the ground floor of a limestone townhouse in the West 70’s makes that clear. But this new place by chef John Fraser shouldn’t be the property of neighborhood residents alone. Run, don’t walk, to Dovetail before the entire city is flocking to the Upper West Side for this fantastic new restaurant.
The only things keeping this from N.F.P. status may be the decor. Sleek to the point of moody minimalism, done in shades of gray, brown, and browngray, Dovetail reminded me of a starkly decorated residence of a lifelong bachelor, the kind who would rather unplug and move one lamp from bedroom to living room rather than buy an extra lamp, much less artwork (true story). Muted moss green chairs are as exciting as it gets.
Canada, the Master Orderer, Marie Fromage and I were greeted with amuse bouches of caviar, fried capers, sour cream, and vodka gelee. Very decadent, like something out of the Master and Margarita, and the vodka added an intriguing, slightly bitter element to the salty-creamy mix.
As expected, the Master Orderer triumphed with his choice of the gnocchi with veal short ribs, foie gras butter, and prunes. The gnocchi were light and retained just a hint of riced-potato texture inside. Veal short ribs turn out to be a very meaty but elegant cut, not as fatty as beef short ribs. The sauce was significantly richened by the foie gras butter. Though the food here could be called “New American,” Fraser’s use of French technique significantly deepens the experience.
As with the veal short rib sauce, he often takes a familiar recipe and turns it up a notch by refining the key ingredients in the mix. Terrine was made not with pork but with rabbit – again a leaner, lighter meat that takes this countrified dish up a notch. Perfectly seasoned and ground, the terrine was also at the right temperature – not too cold, just slightly cooler than room temperature either. A too-cold country pate reminds me of leftover meatloaf straight from the fridge – not good.
The mildest of the appetizers, the brussels sprouts leaves salad, was lightly citrusy, an elegant winter salad with a nice crunch and a smattering of prosciutto and pears.
After the veal gnocchi, our other favorite appetizer was the pork belly, maitake mushrooms, kale, and egg, which the menu calls a “hen egg” (as opposed to a rooster egg?). I love a coddled egg, and here it was sandwiched next to kale that had been brought to the point of nori-like crispiness. Mixed with the succulent pork belly, the whole thing was a fabulous conflation of flavors.
Moving on, we managed to order all meat courses, though there are some excellent fish choices on the menu as well, including the requisite fish-n-bacon combo. The Master Orderer – we must always check in with this bellwether first – went for the roasted sirloin and beef cheek lasagna. Here’s another food trend I’m liking: serving up the animal in various incarnations (apologies to Buddhists). In this case, the nicely aged and grilled sirloin was better than the lasagna, which was actually just mushrooms and beef cheeks stacked to resemble lasagna – gyp.
Each of our entrees – the sirloin, the grilled venison, the pistachio crusted duck, and the rack and leg of lamb – was notable for the quality of the meat itself and the wonderful sauces, which seemed to have a demiglace base. That night we didn’t have the problem that Alan Richman had of the meat being dried out – quite the opposite. Too often now not enough attention is paid to the star player on the plate, and restaurants just hope you get swept up by the sides, as I sometimes do. But even without the chestnuts, tangy-sweet stewed cabbage, and cute little marshmallows that decorated the plate, the cut of slightly smoky, tender venison itself would have been a star.
“Now that’s how venison is supposed to t
aste,” Marie Fromage said.
“I don’t get the marshmallows,” Canada said. Indeed, they were cutesy.
But the Master Orderer said, “Marshmallows are always good.”
The pistachio-crusted duck was flavorful and bird-y, not gamey, the dish a refined French preparation that involved lots of beautiful slow roasted vegetables like endive.
The menu description of “rack and leg of lamb” with “Indian spices, winter tabouleh, and yogurt” conjured up a very specific idea. A whiff of the exotic, plus the comfort of the known, with the enticement of tabouleh reinterpreted for a different season. One of the best things about Dovetail is that it delivers on your expectations and then some. The cut of lamb was so delicious and perfectly cooked to medium rare, the rub of spices so fragrant but unobtrusive, the hominy-like texture of the warm bulgur wheat tabouleh so good against the tang of yogurt. One bite and you’re transported away, maybe not as far as India, but at least as far as Morocco.
Fortunately the portion sizes are not overwhelming, because we still had room for dessert. The best was Canada’s order of the banana brioche with a bacon-flavored wafer. Don’t be afraid: there’s only a hint of bacon compared to the richness of the brioche. Delicious. Another good pick on that night’s dessert menu was the cheesecake ice cream.
The only downfall of the night was weird little beet jelly petits fours presented at the end. Even if you were a beet fan. As Marie Fromage put it, “They’re trying to challenge you, and at this point of the night you don’t want to be challenged.”
Prices were reasonable for this caliber of food, though the wine list does not feature enough bottles under $100. There’s a $125 tasting menu, including wine pairings, which I would do on a second visit. Service was very attentive and smooth, though we did have to wait forever for the check, and I think I terrified the waitress when I whipped out a camera to photograph the food. God knows why, since I am just a blogger, and they’ll probably have many more.
Afterwards we couldn’t say enough good things about this place. Canada and the Master Orderer are going back “with friends.” (What are we, chopped rabbit?!?) Let’s hope John Fraser will be considered for the 2008 Food & Wine Best New Chef awards. In the meantime, diners from all over the city should head to the Upper West while this great new restaurant is still in a very exciting stage – when the star chef is in the kitchen, cooking.
Dovetail
103 West 77th Street between Columbus and Broadway
New York, New York
212-362-3800
Posted in American, food, New York restaurants, restaurants, Upper West Side
Tagged beef, duck, foie gras, New York
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Times Square and Environs
Despite the presence of the Conde Nast building, which no one ever seems to enter or leave, Times Square is pretty much a fashion wasteland. If you want to see what was “in” two or three years ago, go here.
Still, a few people managed to stand out in the crowd here and on the slightly more stylish Sixth Avenue.
oversize hoodie jacket
orange and camouflage
Everything about her outfit works: the slouchy purple coat mixed with a brown bag, the boots, the tights with a little shimmer in them, the funky necklace, and the Pat Benatar haircut.
Fur hoodie jackets haven’t gone away, they’ve just gotten bigger.
Conservative plaid scarf in nonconservative colors.
This look was punk in a Rent kind of way. Taking a homeboy trend of the printed sweatshirts and spinning it to mean wearable art.
White belted coat.
Plaid coats are everywhere – they look particularly interesting in boxy or bubble cuts.
Very daring. A nice hi-lo mix of the trapper hat with the fur jacket and Vuitton bag.
Toggle coats are everywhere on guys, particularly worn this way with the flipped collar and scarf.
I keep coming back to this coat, because it’s so ugly it’s mesmerizing. Jolie laide. She wears the hood like you’d sunglasses, as a way of hiding when you’re walking down the street.
orange and camouflage
Everything about her outfit works: the slouchy purple coat mixed with a brown bag, the boots, the tights with a little shimmer in them, the funky necklace, and the Pat Benatar haircut.
Fur hoodie jackets haven’t gone away, they’ve just gotten bigger.
Conservative plaid scarf in nonconservative colors.
This look was punk in a Rent kind of way. Taking a homeboy trend of the printed sweatshirts and spinning it to mean wearable art.
White belted coat.
Plaid coats are everywhere – they look particularly interesting in boxy or bubble cuts.
Very daring. A nice hi-lo mix of the trapper hat with the fur jacket and Vuitton bag.
Toggle coats are everywhere on guys, particularly worn this way with the flipped collar and scarf.
I keep coming back to this coat, because it’s so ugly it’s mesmerizing. Jolie laide. She wears the hood like you’d sunglasses, as a way of hiding when you’re walking down the street.
Bar Stuzzichini and Shorty’s.32
Fine dining is fine, but let’s face it: most of the time, most of us just want to eat. This is particularly the case when you’re going out with a gang of friends. It’s not about the provenance of the foie gras or that rare bottle of Screaming Eagle on the wine list, it’s about good food in a fun atmosphere.
Two places that satisfy in this regard are Shorty’s.32 and Bar Stuzzichini, where the gang and I ate recently. The reports are true – Bar Stuzzichini ain’t much to look at. For one thing, the wrought-iron chandeliers are attached to foam core board ceilings, which means the decorator should have his license revoked. As I have tried to explain to the aesthetically-impaired super of my own building many a time, foam core board = anathema. Though the atmosphere is lively, the restaurant’s makeshift Italian design makes Morandi look real by comparison. We termed the décor “D-list Morandi.”
But maybe I just had A, B, C, and D lists on the brain because of the pop culture symposium going on at this table of media junkies. Of Jada Pinkett Smith and the Page Six blind item: “She makes Queen Latifah look straight.”
Finally the talk turned to the menu. After five to ten minutes of debate, we decided what to order. Actually, the gang didn’t decide so much as agree to disagree. We just ordered more, which is fine at Bar Stuzzichini because there are so many menu items that you can “pick” at (stuzzicare), and most are inexpensive. Though efficient enough, our young waiter was very serious and a little bizarre. It was like having Rainn Wilson‘s character from Six Feet Under as your server.
One of the best things here – and a reason to go back – is the chickpea fritters, which were actually on our B list of things to order. Thank God we went to the B list, because these were airy, light, fried little pillows that reminded me of actual Italian street food, particularly the deep fried cubes of polenta you can find everywhere around Florence but nowhere here. Manna from heaven. Trained at Wallsé under Kurt Gutenbrunner, chef Paul Di Bari is also an expert at making potentially heavy foods taste light as air.
Also delicious were the smoky grilled octopus with a glaze of what seemed like reduced, slightly sweet balsamic vinegar, the arancini (rice balls), which were stuffed not with the usual mozz but a slightly funkier, more complex cheese like taleggio, and the fried artichokes, which perfectly suit the “picking” theme of the restaurant.
I was actually not a fan of the deep fried meatballs. Though perfectly crunchy outside and moist within, they seemed sad without a little marinara sauce. Grilled zucchini were ho-hum.
The gnocchi that has some people raving did not make as big of an impression on me. Maybe I’ve gotten too attached to gnocchi that’s been pan-seared, an Asian-dumpling technique that’s now used on pasta like the fabulous bacon gnocchi at Allen & Delancey. Also, the amatriciana sauce didn’t taste enough of pork. At first I blamed the use of delicate guanciale in place of the usual pancetta. (Flo Fab has it that guanciale is the authentic ingredient of choice.) But Crispo‘s excellent bucatini with amatriciana sauce is made with guanciale, and it tastes much heartier. Bar Stuzzichini’s erred so much on the side of gentleness that it tasted more like a marinara sauce.
Vegetarians should rejoice, because some of the best dishes here are meat- and fish-free, like the orecchiette with cauliflower and breadcrumbs, which was wonderfully garlicky. Likewise, the pasta and chickpeas, which is more of a soup, was perfectly prepared, with both the noodles and chickpeas having a nice al dente texture.
Two pieces of cake – the chocolate and the orange-scented olive oil cake – were devoured almost before I could capture their existence on film. They were both dense, very fresh, and intensely flavored.
On the way out, BFast, an editor at a fashion magazine, donned a rather unusual khaki cl
oak with double breasted buttons running down where the sleeves would have been.
“It’s the Hound of the Baskervilles!” Marciano cried.
“I have a mystery for you to solve,” B.Fast said. “Where are my arms?”
A satisfying evening, though not as heart-poundingly thrilling as the time we sat next to Howard Stern and Beth Ostrosky at Shorty’s.32 a while back.
“It just so much cooler because they’re both here,” Lina said. She would know; she’s a “radio personality.” How is a radio personality different than a regular personality? Does one lose one’s personality as soon as one is off air? Not in this case.
This is another fun place with some interior design problems. The lampshades were like something you would be forced to put in your apartment on an interior design show, only to take them down as soon as the decorator left the building. Keep your eyes below lamp-level, however, and you’ll find a cool space with party-boy music on the stereo and a vibe reminiscent of Red Cat, though chef Josh Eden comes to Shorty’s.32 from working with Jean-Georges, not Jimmy Bradley.
The food is less problematic than the decor. Creamy, luscious Jerusalem artichoke soup was met with a hallelujah chorus. The pork belly was good, though it needed some more oomph. Even better were the truly legumey beans served alongside – these tasted as fresh and gently cooked as California raw cuisine.
Cavatelli would be the best of the appetizers were I not accursed with a strong dislike of truffles, which have infiltrated everything these days. Hand-rolled and homemade, this was the most sophisticated of the first courses.
As we strained to hear Howard Stern and Beth Ostrosky over music that approached rock concert decibel, the entrees dropped. Fish ‘n’ bacon, fish ‘n’ bacon, fish ‘n’ bacon: A great combination that gives you reason to eat fish all winter. Shorty’s was the baked skate with bacon. On the opposite side of the fish spectrum was the sea bass, light and citrusy with just a little char. Quinoa on the side had a wonderfully nubbly texture to complement the delicate fish.
Is it lame to order chicken in a restaurant? Certainly not here – it’s the best of the entrees, and it’s downright decadent, buttery with a crispy skin and a garlicky aroma throughout. Short ribs were served boneless – a neat trick, especially since they had all the flavor of bone-in ribs but were much easier to eat.
My grilled New York strip steak was initially off-putting because it arrived already sliced. Since the age of seven or so I’ve liked to cut my own meat. Chalk it up to a weird pet peeve. But it went beautifully with the fries, which had a hint of bacon flavor to them. Mmmm… more bacon…
Like Bar Stuzzichini, Shorty’s.32 satisfied. Good music, good food, good drinks, and good times. When it comes to dining of any kind, sometimes that’s all you need.
Bar Stuzzichini
928 Broadway between 21st and 22nd Streets
New York, New York
212-780-5100
Shorty’s.32
199 Prince Street between Sullivan and MacDougal Streets
New York, New York
212-375-8275
Posted in Flatiron District, food, Italian, New York restaurants, restaurants
Tagged Beth Ostrosky, New York
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