New York restaurants

This little Vietnamese place opened up not long ago in the East Village, and unlike most high profile places that bill themselves as a “neighborhood restaurant,” it actually is one. It’s almost an accident that it’s high-profile, but chef John Nguyen, who wound up at Hanoi House after answering a Craigslist ad, has since gone on to land on multiple “best of” lists for his cooking at Hanoi House.

Yet the vibe has stayed pretty low key. You will find as many locals stumbling in here for a bowl of pho as you will food tourists who’ve traveled far to try the modern Vietnamese dishes, which are based in tradition but spring off into new directions, incorporating very fresh local greens, excellent seafood and all sorts of cuts of meat.

Take the pig’s ear salad, for instance. It turns out pig’s ear has a flavor like pork rinds but a texture not unlike squid, especially when it’s breaded, deep fried and tossed with a tangle of greens and citrusy papaya.

Nguyen’s interpretation of Tom Nuong seems to take some cues from the American South – pairing the shrimp with corn porridge feels like a nod to shrimp and grits, but the char on the shrimp and the bracing garlic elevate this dish past comfort food.

This octopus with coconut curry was insanely good. The intense flavors made a mockery of the watered-down, cloyingly sweet sauces that pass for curries elsewhere in the city. The whole thing has a lurking heat that really creeps up on you, and it seems the only way to put out the fire is to keep eating more.

Greens, crunchy wontons and mildly sweet pork sausage  with echoes of Spam (but in a good way) get wrapped in the thinnest layer of rice paper for these summer rolls.

You don’t just get bone marrow at Hanoi House, but a whole bone shank in Nguyen’s version of shaking beef. This makes for a theatrical arrival at the table and also a satisfying addition to the meal – there are all kinds of delicious juices that accumulate in the bone which can then be poured over rice. This is another spicy one – the heat on the beef filet will clear your sinuses – allayed only by the fresh baby greens dressed with lime.

Another standout, also spicy, is the charred brussels sprouts with chilies. And Hanoi House is known for its pho, to which you can add oxtail or another one of those crazy marrow bones. A good one for adventurous shared eating is the Bun Cha, in which grilled pork and little pork meatballs made with fresh mint are submerged in fish sauce and served alongside rice noodles and fresh herbs (perilla/tía tô) and lettuces. It’s fun to assemble your combination of noodles, pork, greens and sauce to taste.

Hanoi House doesn’t take reservations, which makes it perfect for drop-ins. Just grab a drink at a nearby bar – we liked Augurs Well Bar next door for its excellent beer selection, mellow vibe and lack of people screaming at the top of their lungs – and the host at Hanoi will text you when your table’s ready. Which will happen soon – they make an effort to turn tables as quickly as possible here. They may hurry you along, but the staff is friendly, knowledgeable and always nearby. There’s nowhere to hide in this small space, which is decorated in the style of kooky East Village plant-filled apartment meets industrial cool.

The locals seem to feel right at home.

Hanoi House
119 St. Marks Place, between First Avenue and Avenue A
New York, NY
212-995-5010
hanoihousenyc.com